Tasmania’s East Coast Part 2: Freycinet to Bay of Fires

November 20, 2024
08:21
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Wanderers at Heart

We're Marc and Sandy, an Australian and an American with a passion for wandering. Follow our adventures as we travel around Australia and beyond!

While the southern section of the East Coast, covered in Part One, is spectacular, the further north you go along this coastline, the better it gets and includes two of the most loved places in Tasmania: Freycinet National Park and Bay of Fires, along with many lesser known but also spectacular natural wonders.

Freycinet National Park

If you see a Tasmania tourism photo with stunningly clear white sand beaches and incredible vistas, chances are it’s from Freycinet National Park. It can take a decent amount of exertion to get to these beautiful scenes, but as long as the weather’s clear, you’ll be rewarded for your efforts with views you won’t soon forget.

A panoramic view from atop granite rocks rolling down green hills to a larger landmass surrounded by ocean on a cloudy day — Freycinet National Park certainly has the “wow” factor

There are several camping options located in the national park, including walk-in only camps in the southern part of the peninsula, but our pick is the free camp at Friendly Beach campground. The campground sits north of the national park and depending on your luck in securing a site can include great views of this long stretch of beach.

A silver caravan sits on sandy ground with bushes around the site with misty ocean and headland in the distance on a cloudy day — Friendly Beach campground at Isaac Point

You’ll also usually have plenty of wildlife such as kangaroos and wallabies milling about your campsite. The sites here are quite sought after, especially during peak times, so timing is everything! Unfortunately, as of late 2023 this area closed indefinitely due to extensive fire damage. More up-to-date information can be found on Tasmania Parks’ website here.

A red-necked Wallaby stands next to a wooden fence post on sandy ground — A red-necked wallaby at Friendly Beach

A visit to Freycinet is not complete without seeing its main drawcard, Wineglass Bay, the perfectly curved stretch of white sand beach that often features on lists of the world’s most beautiful beaches. If you’re up for a bit of a hike, we recommend the Wineglass Bay and Hazards loop.

A view from high up of rolling green hills dropping down to Wineglass Bay, a perfect half circle of white sand beach leading out to a protected bay, in Freycinet National Park on Tasmania's east coast on a cloudy day — Even on an overcast day, Wineglass Bay still impresses

This hike is an 11km circuit that takes about 4-5 hours and will take you to the main highlights of the area. It starts with a short but steep walk to the Wineglass Bay Lookout (which can be done as its own hike if you prefer), then you continue down the hill to see this iconic beach up close (and go for a cooling dip if you’d like!). After this, you can backtrack back to the carpark, or cross the isthmus to Hazards Beach, then through a winding coastal bushland track back to the start. This section of the track feels longer than you’d expect but is still quite pleasant.

A long stretch of sandy beach with a calm ocean and large headlands in the distance covered by low cloud on a mostly cloudy day — Hazards Beach

If you’d like to explore more, you can do a larger multi-day hike through the southern section of the peninsula, or several cruises are available as a great option to see parts of the peninsula not even accessible on foot.

Another popular hike in the area is the Mount Amos hike, which is not for the faint of heart and should absolutely not be attempted if there is any precipitation. The hike itself is only 3.6km return but it mostly entails an extremely steep climb up a fairly smooth rock face. Unfortunately for us our visit to Mount Amos, while requiring all the effort, resulted in none of the reward as a low cloud blocked our view for the entire time at the top; therefore, we suggest tackling this one on a clear day. Oh well, can’t win them all!

Granite rocks and thick bushland are covered by a thick cloudy mist — Unfortunately this is the only view we got from the top of Mount Amos

One of the lesser known hikes but still quite adventurous is the Mount Parsons Hike from Sleepy Bay. You will need a certain level of fitness and ability to attempt this track as it involves climbing (sometimes scrambling) up and down steep boulders, but it does offer great views from the top. If that sounds like it’s not for you, the hike to Sleepy Bay itself is a very easy 20 minute return hike to the pretty little bay.

A panoramic from the top of a granite boulder hill with streaks of colour through it looks down on the ocean with a large green headland in the distance — Mount Parsons offers great views with less of the crowds

If you’re looking for a bit of respite after all this activity, Honeymoon Bay is the perfect spot to unwind. The clear, calm waters are ideal for swimming and snorkelling. For a tasty meal, the fish and chips and ice cream at Ice Cream & Co will hit the spot.

A panoramic view of a small circular bay with clear ocean water and rocky, bushy hills in the backgrounds on a mostly clear sunny day — Honeymoon Bay is the perfect spot for swimming, snorkelling, paddling or simply relaxing

Bicheno

Bicheno is another popular seaside town along the east coast. Whalers Lookout is a great spot to get a good overview of the town and coastline. When the tides are right, the Bicheno Blowhole is quite impressive, and the nearby Lobster Shack is famous for its lobster rolls.

A rocky shelf with a large rectangular piece of rock and a blowhole spouting on a cloudy day — Bicheno Blowhole is quite impressive with the right conditions

There is a sizeable Little Penguin colony in Bicheno which you can visit with a guided tour. Keen surfers will find a couple of good surf breaks here.

A worthwhile day trip from Bicheno is a visit to Douglas Apsley National Park. There are a variety of hikes of different length here; the most popular is the hike to Apsley Waterhole and Gorge. The waterhole is easily accessible from the carpark and offers a lovely large pool perfect for a cooling dip.

A large natural pool of water reflects a clear blue sky with some ripples in the water framed by thick bushland — The inviting waters of Apsley Waterhole

Then you continue through the undulating bushland to get to Apsley Gorge. If the riverbed is dry, you can make the hike a circuit and walk back via the riverbed, which will add 1-2 hours to your hike time; otherwise, returning along the same track will take about 2-3 hours overall.

Ironhouse Point

Ironhouse Point sits about 30 minutes north of Bicheno. It has a winery and brewery and offers free camping on site. A little beach offers opportunities for exploring but can be somewhat treacherous on a rough day. For the fit and able, the steep climb up nearby St Patrick’s Head provides sweeping views of the surrounding area. The trailhead is located about 25km from Ironhouse Point and the walk is 3km return of steep hiking.

A panoramic view from the top of a rocky headland looking down to rolling green hills and ocean coastline on a mostly clear day — Views from St Patricks Head

If you continue inland, through quaint country towns like St Marys and Fingal, you will eventually reach two natural beauties: Mathinna Falls and the Evercreech Forest. Mathinna Falls track is a beautiful walk through temperate rainforest and the waterfall is comprised of a lower and upper falls.

A tall cascading waterfall with a large log to one side flows into a small creek framed by greenery — Lower Mathinna Falls

A waterfall cascades over rocks into a small pool framed by greenery — Lower Mathinna Falls

The upper falls is reached by a somewhat sketchy track on a steep incline so isn’t recommended if you’re not sure-footed. The Evercreech Forest has a few walks available, including Evercreech Falls and the White Knights, white gum trees that have grown up to 95 metres tall. You can even free camp at the forest reserve (tents only).

A picture from below of a tall gum tree forest on a cloudy day — The White Knights

A cascading waterfall over mossy rocks with a large log in front framed by greenery — The White Knights

St Helens

The town of St Helens is often seen as the gateway to the Bay of Fires, but there is more to see and do in this area. St Helens Conservation Area has many pretty spots to explore, including 4WD-only beach driving on Peron Dunes and walking along the wild coastline of Burns Beach to Barrel Beach. Alternatively, St Helens, along with Derby, has become a mountain biking destination, with plenty of tracks to choose from nearby.

A low shot of sand dunes with wind ripples through them and a small bush with the beach in the distance at sunrise — Peron Dunes at sunrise

Mount Williams National Park is located just under an hour north of St Helens; access is via unsealed roads. There are several campgrounds available; however, due to tight tracks and low branches at most of the campgrounds, large vans are not recommended. If you have a bigger van, you are better off leaving the van in St Helens or Bay of Fires and day-tripping in. The park is broken up into a southern and northern section. The southern section has beautiful coastal access at Policemans Point (although technically part of the Bay of Fires Reserve) and Eddystone Point, great for any water activity from snorkelling to boating.

An uneven tiled boat ramp framed by orange lichen covered rocks and low bushes leads into a clear turquoise blue ocean on a partly cloudy day — Eddystone Point

Dark barnacle-covered rocks sit on a white sand beach with a blue ocean in the background on a partly cloudy day — Eddystone Point

The northern section features the Forester Kangaroo Drive where, particularly at dusk and dawn, you are likely to spot Tasmania’s only species of kangaroo. If Bay of Fires is feeling just a bit too busy, Mt Williams is a great option to enjoy the beauty of this coastline without the crowds.

A dry grasslands with green vegetation in the background with three kangaroos in the middle of the frame, two standing tall and one bent over eating grass — You’re likely to see more kangaroos than people at Mount Williams National Park

Bay of Fires

Bay of Fires, a 50km stretch of coastline in the northeast corner of the state, will leave you in awe with its vibrant colours, from the clear blue ocean to the pure white sand and the orange lichen-covered rocks. The name “Bay of Fires” comes from when early explorers first sailed past this area and could see the fires from the local Indigenous population along the coastline.

A drone shot of a wide bay with white sand beach and lichen covered rocks covered in thick bushland, with clear blue ocean on a partly cloudy day — The vibrant colours of Bay of Fires will astound you

There are several options for free camps in the area, and anyone who’s stayed at one of them will swear that one’s the best. Truth is, they’re all pretty amazing! We ended up at Swimcart Beach and managed to snag a very sought-after beachfront spot; a lot of it comes down to luck of timing, but mid-morning is usually a good time to come in as that’s often when people are heading off to their next destination. Other popular nearby free camps are Cosy Corner and Jeanneret Beach.

Looking out from a caravan window with bushes and a low wooden fencein the foreground, white sand beach stretches out to a wavy blue ocean on a partly cloudy day — Hard to beat a view like this from your caravan, and best of all, it’s free!

Whether you want to stroll the long stretch of white sand, explore rockpools, cast a line, snorkel along the rocks, or simply sit back and take it all in, Bay of Fires is the perfect place for this and more. There are even a couple inland lagoons perfect for a kayak or SUP. Take your time to explore, and you will find many hidden treasures along this stunning coastline.

a panoramic view of a rocky, orange lichen-covered cove framed by bushland and a large house to the right, with vibrant blue ocean on a mostly clear day — Find hidden gems like this one all along the Bay of Fires coastline

The Gardens is the northern end of public access to the Bay of Fires. There is only a day use area here. It offers a short circuit walk through bushland and along the beach and can be a great option for water activities when the ocean is calm.

Grey rocks covered in orange lichen in the foreground lead to a turquoise blue ocean and white sand beach, with dry grassland and bushland in the distance — The Gardens

The northern section of Tasmania’s East Coast, from Freycinet to Bay of Fires, reveals a mesmerizing blend of nature and adventure. From the iconic Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National Park to the vibrant hues of Binalong Bay, and inland gems such as Douglas Apley National Park, this journey showcases some of the best of Tasmania’s natural beauty.

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